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sure, they are mostly variable resistor sensors, with ground on the middle pin, so you can exchange freely without needing to worry about the right resistor value to accompany your bend sensor, I don't cut the cable but make extention/convertion cords with plugs.
Resistors, yes, but distance sensors, gyroscope etc need a power supply. I-CubeX says "4.75 to 5.25 V DC" but Eowave says "Built-in phantom 5V DC". Would be a different method if they really mean phantom power.
Their sensors tend to be insanely expensive but they are well designed and you don't need to do much yourself.
If you are thingking of stripping the connectors and using one system's sensors with another's ADC I would strongly recommend going full DIY. You will save quite a lot but mostly would learn a lot too.
Regarding your "Phantom power" question, I would assume that is a bit of buzzwording by the Eowave lads so that it is understandable for audio-oriented people that don't know much about sensors. As llumen said, they can all be seen as variable resistors as far as the ADC is concerned. Most standard sensors will need a 5v supply (what Eowave is calling "phantom" here), ground and its variable voltage out (which goes to the ADC). In the case of a pot or slider there is no real active component, you just add resistance to the 5v that are being supplied and get a different voltage out. On more sophisticated sensors you could have some built in active components that are also powered by the 5v source, they do their magic and output their signal as a variable voltage in the 0v-5v range.
Many thanks to you both, your comments are very helpful.
I already doubted that "phantom power" is the correct description because this would make the Eowave incompatible to other systems.
Since I learned that sensors are basically interchangable it's now my turn to find the interface that fits best. Only one sensor in my focus is offered exclusively for the I-CubeX and it is a resistor. So I will take either an Eowave interface or, if speed becomes an issue, a Teabox.
Peter, just be aware that - as Miguel alluded to - the pinouts for the 3-pin connector are not identical on all sensors and interfaces; just because it's a 3-pin connector does not guarantee they are directly compatible. You may ned to swap pins to make sure the signal, ground, and 5v connections are in the right places. :)
Is literally the exact same sensor as this: http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9376 - which is a third of the price. I'm doubtful that your specialized connector, cable, and labor to put that all together came out to another $14.
$14 for a two-wire cable, a connector, and some heatshrink wrap, and about 40 seconds worth of soldering.
@ MuShoo: Sorry that it took so long to notice your reply. Sparkfun and Adafruit are great, we agree, because we are engineers and like barebones stuff, like yourself it seems. But there are others who need the added value we provide. Even for you we think it's cost effective if you'd be realistic about your time because it takes quite a bit more than 40 seconds to make our Touch sensor. Oh but wait, can we hire you if you can do it so fast ? We'll be able to lower our prices once more ! By the way wrt. insanity - we rather think that it's insane what people pay for a pair of brandname sunglasses.
It's good to see the prices have come down. I'm personally quite happy/lucky that I didn't drop $400 (or whatever it used to be) on a sensor system when Arduino/Xbee stuff was right around the corner for a fraction of the price. I came close...
It would actually be interesting to hear what the original poster (Peter) has decided to use in the end. After all, his question was for a sensor system with MIDI output. Unless using a shield, Arduino default works through USB and has no sensors included - you have to figure out by yourself how to wire them and then have the skill and time (if only it could be done in 40 seconds .. ) to make them.